Surfisti una razza a sè Agosto 20, 2007
Inviato da fede79 in : Surf Book , trackback“I told them I’d love to get a career going[…] and I really would, but the problem is, and I told them, I’m really busy surfing. I don’t have time. And, anyway, I told them, like, I’ve accomplished a lot. I mean, shit, I can surf! That ain’t easy. People don’t realize that”
“My girlfriend’s is moving to Hawaii to teach. It’d be so killer to get back over there. She’d have like her own place where I could stay, probably no rent. I think she wants to get married, but shit, she says I’d have to get a job. I’ve got the money to go and everything, and it sounds killer to be in the islands with her, but I’m thinking, damn, for the same amount I could get a new board and wetsuit.”
Tratto da “Caught Inside, a surfer’s year on the California coast”
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